Crazymaesy Dog Agility Training Notes

Crazymaesy Agility Training Notes

Jumping and Turning

Train on different height jumps (including slightly over-height) and on different distances between obstacles (including under minimum distance). Also use different wings, poles, walls, spreads, wells etc. The aim is to get the dog to learn how to adjust its stride and jump to clear whatever is in front of it, rather than to jump a particular obstacle.

Train at different distances to your dog, ahead, behind, to either side. Don’t command each jump. The aim is to teach the dog to clear whatever is in front of it and not to rely on your imperfect timing!

Train turns and handling techniques early, before moving on to full height. Don't be afraid to drop down to a lower height when training turns as you don't want to be distracted by poles coming down while the dog is learning something new.

Where are your shoulders pointing, where are your feet pointing? These are the cues that most dogs find easiest to follow. So most of the time you should try to move in the direction you want the dog to go and point your shoulders to trace the path to the next obstacle. This works for both close and distance handling.

Most dogs are sensitive to your hands. Too sensitive. It is very difficult to be consistent with the timing and direction you point when you're running, and flapping arms are a common cause of dropped poles. So keep your arms for helping you to run until you really need the dog to follow them.

Try not to stand in the dog's path. At best it slows them down, often it causes dropped poles. If you're doing a recall, try to get yourself going in the right direction as quickly as possible. Or if you want a tight turn after the recall, stand to one side and recall to an outstretched hand, which you can use to sweep the dog in the right direction afterwards.

Try to be on the side you want the dog to turn. Most dogs like to turn towards where they think the handler is. You will get faster, more accurate turns if you work the dog on both left and right, changing sides where necessary to follow this rule.

Run at the wing when working close to the dog. Most times you should aim at, or just to the edge of, the wing of the jump you want the dog to do. That way it knows what to do and isn't tempted to duck out the side. This is true when working behind as much as when with or ahead of the dog. It doesn’t apply at greater distances when you need to invest the effort into training the dog to work on irrespective of where you are moving.

Crossing behind the jump. Make up your mind if you are working this section of the course from behind or not. If you aren't, then don't cross behind the jump as you'll be too close to the dog and likely to distract it. If you are, then give the dog plenty of room to work on to the jump and cross behind when it is committed to it. The more you train, the more you will be able to cross early and the tighter will be the dog's turn.

Timing turns. Remember that the dog needs to know where to go next as well as where to go now to jump efficiently and confidently. When you’re changing direction, let the dog know this as early as possible without creating a refusal. If you can’t get to what you think is the right position to turn in time, you still need to let the dog know where to go. Don’t make the dog wait for you!

Shoulder turns. Start to turn early while committing the dog to the current obstacle. Continue the turn so your shoulders point in the direction you now want the dog to go. Don’t watch him heading off in the old direction, that just throws your shoulders the wrong way! Think about the dog’s line going into the turn, sometimes pushing wide beforehand can give a tighter turn.

Reverse turns. Not just for those who run with their dogs, this is a basic technique for changing sides at any distance and it has the virtue of being tolerant of imperfect positioning by the handler. Tighten them up by starting with a little shoulder turn then turn sharply in the opposite direction so you’re facing the way you now want the dog to travel.

Front cross. Send the dog away from you over the jump, step out of the dog's way and reverse turn. Good combined with javelin arms when snaking side-by-side jumps.

False turn (reverse flow pivot). Great for positioning the dog for the next obstacle and avoiding traps, you shape to do a reverse turn then (having got the dog's attention) reverse again and head for where you really want to go.

Blind turn. If you've got ahead of the dog then just put your hand out and half turn in the direction you want it to go. An elegant and effective style once learned but you must be in the right place at the right time and be careful not to give misleading hand signals once you’ve taught the dog to look for them! It can be difficult for the dog to distinguish between front cross and blind cross moves starting (cues) and only a few people are successful at mixing the two styles.

Pull through (threadle). Same as the front cross but step to the wing by the gap and hassle the dog through. Remember to get the dog’s attention, leave the path clear and point in the right direction!

Aeroplanes. Imagine a little boy pretending to be a 'plane with both arms out. To turn right he "banks", dropping his right hand and lifting his left. To turn left he does the opposite. Do the same when working the dog from behind so you point at the right turn jump with your left arm and vice-versa. Note how this "wrong arm" approach follows the shoulders rule whereas using the "natural arm" throws your shoulders the wrong way. Even better, just turn the shoulders and keep those arms out of the way!

Javelin arm. Think of a javelin thrower aiming diagonally over the jump. Feet headed diagonally, arm back, shoulders pointing at the jump. As the hand comes up at the jump, so the shoulders swing in the direction you want the dog to turn. In this case the hand and arm movement can help the dog pick up the line more quickly than just using the shoulders.

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